I’m obsessive about shoes. Not in that “Carrie Bradshaw Manolos” way, this stack isn’t an ode to a pump. I’m crazed about them because they “complete” me - the way I feel in an outfit, the way I stand, the way I physically walk. If you can recall that scene from VEEP where Selina hobbles to the podium to give her Presidential address in squeaky Louboutins that sounded like puppy chew toys, then you’re probably feeling a bit cringey right now. The wrong shoe kills. But think on this for a minute: if you search for “croquis” (a quick sketch of a nude fashion figure used for fashion design), every image has her in a 4” heel, resulting in a full Barbie stance + hip thrust:
No manipulation here - this is the first page that Google serves you. Try it.
Obviously I draw my own croquis, and I use real life muses. Muses that walk miles in their shoes, get a lot done, and look the way I want to fee, like Dafne here. As Traci designs the ready to wear collection, I’m working on the footwear - how I imagine myself standing in the designs. Where I’m going and what problems they’ll solve. This is the bank of information I share to Alanna and Pauline in Paris as we’re building out a collection. When I’m sketching, my hand can literally feel whether there is a sense of ease. You can see when they’re based off of a real life muse rather than google images, you can literally feel how YOU will feel in the shoes. I’m using pics of Dafne here @by.dafne_ because she gives visuals to my words..
So, let’s get in to this - What Shoe When.
WHEN:
The weather is transitional, walking is required (that may seem obvious but stay with me here) and you want a shoe that gives coverage but is not a boot or a trainer. I make a distinction here because a boot and trainer are so obvious that many of you feel in a rut as a result. De-rut options, here.
Victor snake here Grey Borg Sockboot Here Brody Brogue Here Black Malcolm here
I don’t set out to create a shoe for this purpose, it’s more of a natural occurrence when you are the one wearing and living in the pieces you make. No one in Merchandising needs to tell me “we need a shoe that we can actually walk in.” When creating, I’m thinking about the toe shape - how it will look peeking out from a wide leg pant or an eased jean. Will it keep my eye moving down my pant leg or will it cut off my line of vision. I don’t like being cut off. Having these shapes in neutrals make them my most often worn pieces.
WHEN:
I look to a shoe to give balance in my style - the proverbial masculine vs. feminine consideration. Don’t mistake this as a trend- all the old headlines about this never really explained the “why” behind the look. It’s not about mixing the two to “create a cool outfit.” It’s about making you feel grounded and like yourself, not one dimensional. We create pieces that lean more masculine, to help right a more feminine piece - and vice versa. My more feminine shoes I with more masculine tailoring - again, it’s about creating depth and dimension. Now here’s the thing, you just about all the designs are gender neutral within one shoe. When I have a more masculine material, I tend to get more feminine in the shape; if the toe shape is more masculine, then I’ll make sure it’s on single sole or has a more delicate strap. I’ll show you:
(More) Feminine
Green sandal here Pink oscar here Black sandal here White Barry here
(More) Masculine
Granger slide here Mikhail ballet here Patent sandal here Navy sock boot here
WHEN:
You want a shoe that makes a STATEMENT but not be so opinionated as to work with only a few things in your closet. The Woodward raffia flat here is exactly that. I mean, you can see this shoe coming. But it’s exactly the shoe that can make a simple black slip dress full on party mode; a trouser skirt way less business, it can make dinner at home with friends in sweatpants feel like a bit of an occasion, and an old pair of Levis feel anything but tired..
Here’s the visual idea, on the croque - the chill croque not the Google Image creatures…..
WHEN:
You need ultimate chill but a regular tennis shoe is just too casual, something over the top feels way to trend victim, and other trainers that feel right have you seeing yourself coming and going - the repetition out there can make you feel feel too much like everyone else. We were all feeling in a sneaker rut, which sucks because we’re very active here and it’s always been a critical part of our closet. That’s why we made Seth. Is it a sneaker? A brogue? A slipper? It’s all three and more and we worked on this one for over a year. How soft was soft enough but still sturdy? How square was too square? How much stitching gives character without making it too specific? We went back and forth, we road tested, and at the expense of sounding boastful, we nailed it.
So, I hope this has helped you out —- thinking about shoes from a different perspective can really broaden and at the same time focus what you’re going after the next time you’re considering adding to the closet. That said, I’m super curious what questions you have about shoes? If you feel like commenting…..ok?
.......bought the Victor in snakeskin, love them, but when I unpacked the WOODWARD I was beyond!!!!!
Changed how I saw so much "blah" in my closet ......cannot wait to wear. These "porcupines" are GOAT!!!!! Thank you for giving me that fashion dopamine.......
this was so wonderful to read - thank you Amy. Something to take on board and reflect, next time I choose shoes to go with an outfit .)